This is the season when the fleets come in with the new herring, succulent and fragrant.
Traditionally it is eaten raw. Iconoclasts dip it in chopped raw onions, but the real connoisseur consumes it neat, with a glass of ice cold Jenever.
The other day I served it as an appetiser on a bed of rucola, decked with raw onions and a wedge of lemon.
Not the purist's fashion, but delicious!